Band adjustments are necessary to keep them from burning up, line pressure control is poor, and the filter to valve body connection was designed in the 's, depending on two or three tiny screws to hold it on.
The high reverse and the wide gap make it a really poor performer in a work truck. Perhaps the worst issue with the 47RE is the control system, as solenoid and governor control failures are very common.
If you are racing I recommend a Ford 4R Rather than mess with all of that I have decided an aftermarket control system is a better way to do it, but it's taken some time to find and take care of some bugs in the system. Sales have been paused for some time while I have been building my own control system and sales will hopefully resume soon to swap these transmissions into Dodges and Fordcummins conversion trucks, so if you are interested read more about it here.
The 68RFE was a huge improvement in the Dodge transmission market, and even in the transmission market in general. It has 6 pinion planetaries and hydraulic accumulation for all shift events. The gear ratios are in my opinion the best available for the Cummins diesel so far.
The 4th to 5th shift is much closer than most transmissions, so the engine does not have to rev as high to survive a big rpm drop that wider overdrive ratios cause. It also has the second lowest reverse, and double overdrive- which is really nice for freeway cruising. Be careful, if you have 37" tires and a 3. Gear ratio calculators can be used to see the difference a 68 will make for you. Unfortunately there is no PTO provision and monster power is a tough challenge to handle. If you need a PTO on the trans engine driven hydraulic pumps are available , and you want more than hp, I recommend the Allison.
There are some durability issues with the 68RFE when power increases over hp put it to the test, especially with the stock tuning, but aftermarket tuning and parts are available to address that.
Power increases are a test for the Allison trans as well, so unfortunately if your Cummins is turned up you will need to spend some money on aftermarket transmission parts no matter what.
These transmissions have generated a fair amount of interest and are generally regarded as a tough trans- but it may still be a good while before they become a viable option for a swap. It may be possible to use one with my new aftermarket controller in the future, and I have had several guys inquire about it so I might be testing one out soon. They are not as easy to find as the others listed here, and I'm not overly impressed with the gear ratios.
First gear is probably a bit too low in most applications- not so bad for a heavy work truck perhaps, but work trucks typically have lower axle ratios anyway. One would expect to see a lower reverse ratio with the low 1st gear as well, but it is not as low as it should be.
In other words, low first is nice, but if you don't have an equally low reverse you may need a lower axle ratio to prevent issues backing heavy trailers. If the two ratios are similar, a higher axle ratio can be used to idealize the drivetrain efficiency. The ratio spacing between 4th and 5th is a little wider than the 68RFE, but closer than the Allison and 5R Racers will probably never leave it, for the previous good reasons, and it is easy to find another core if you break one.
If your work truck has a 4. Generally speaking, only a double overdrive transmission will be much better as far as ratios go. The 4R comes in the gas or 7.
The gas version is almost the same as the 5R pattern the gas 4R is missing two holes on the top , so it is possible to bolt a gas 4R case to most aftermarket 5R adapters and even 6.
Gas versions may have cheaper planetaries and other hard parts in them so don't use one behind a high performance diesel without first sending it to a reputable transmission builder. The Ford 5R isn't a bad trans to have if you already have one- but with better swap options available now I wouldn't recommend swapping one in a Dodge Cummins or to replace a 4R in a Cummins conversion.
There is a little interest out there in replacing the E4OD or 4R behind a 7. You'll never break an output shaft and the extra gear might be helpful if you are doing really heavy towing and you don't want to use a 68RFE or an Allison. Unfortunately the spacing between 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears is a bit too close for it to be ideal, so it's not much different than the 4R as far as gearing goes.
The lower first gear is nice, but unfortunately reverse isn't any lower than the 4R Fourth gear is a joke that Ford played on everyone- it never really gets used unless the control system isn't happy about something, and isn't worth using anyway- 5th is the same as the 4R 3rd gear and 6th is the same as the 4R's 4th. The OEM system doesn't work nearly as well with the ' trucks. The PCS controller still needs more time to be learned and proven with these transmissions.
If there is anyone out there with one running well, I'd be happy to see a datalog to prove it! If I'm impressed I'll update the options here. The 6R is one that swappers are still dreaming about, and as far as I know there hasn't been anyone that has pulled it off yet.
I'm not too interested in any control development at this time, even though it could be the strongest automatic out there in stock form - once again the gear ratios are not ideal. I've had all the common issues resolved via extended warranty HPFP, Water pump, valve cover, oil filter housing gasket, mechatronic sleeve, injectors, etc foresaw this happening that is why I got the warranty so after some research into the matter manual swap I found a really nice deal on a manual transmission with about 35K miles on it and I have a buddy of mine who has done several auto to manual swaps on other similar configuration cars longitudinally mounted transmissions, aka: typical RWD drivetrain setup and with some parts list of the conversion I was off!
So with that being said, I have decided to document the whole process for anyone who is interested in performing this DIY. I've read nothing but negative things on this job, from "waste of money" to "it's not even worth it". Well to those who love their car too much to trade it in and want to convert to manual to revive some of that "ultimate driving experience" I say to you, Read on friends!
Last edited by a moderator: Feb 2, How-To: I'm still at the moment gathering all the parts required for this, I will also be linking different DIY's and guides I found online relating to this and I will reference many of them for wiring and such as well. I will update this thread as I obtain the parts and do the prerequisite work. I will also edit the parts list with OEM Part numbers for sourcing, as well as add more tools and such later one. I will also add the wiring diagram. Remove O2 sensor bracket from bellhousing 2x E10 fasteners once removed affix it to the side via a zip tie or equivalent In the engine compartment remove the cabin air filters and IAT sensors on cowl, they will simply unclip.
With transmission still held up by stand or jack stick a piece of wood 2x4 or a piece that will fit just right in-between the oil pan and the sway bar. There should be a little bit of pressure on the wood then push it in.
Remove torque Convert bolts There should be a hole near the bellhousing to remove the torque convert bolts make sure to crank the motor in order to reach all the bolts Once torque converter has been unbolted proceed with removing automatic transmission from engine by removing the remaining bellhousing bolts Slowly remove transmission from car.
While removing trans, have a friend or another person or you, whichever go ahead and remove the driveshaft rear end from the diff 50mm axel nut wrench Once removed, replace driveshaft insert nut, if you plan on doing that seal if not go ahead and remove old driveshaft and rebuild second half with manual driveshaft piece, or go ahead and replace the whole shaft with the manual one if you went that route.
Fill transmission with fluid if you haven't already done so. Route hose for clutch line through firewall, cut nipple to break reservoir be sure to drain a little fluid out of the reservoir, so you don't spill break fluid when cutting the nipple for the clutch line off as it's location is near the bottom of the reservoir.
Remov automatic flywheel from engine. So when I took off the flywheel I was introduced to the pilot shaft, which is actually a separate piece that sits behind the flywheel to attached to the pilot bearing inside the input shaft of the transmission. After some research it turns out the N55 does not have this and has the pilot bearing within the flywheel like you would normally see it.
Pics to flywheel with pilot "stub" Install clutch and pressure plate using alignment tool be sure to use some red loctite when bolting in the flywheel bolts, no need for that to vibrate back out of it's place haha. Be sure to remove all the automatic connectors from the trans and lift from the top of the car out the automatic tranmission loom.
I used a Dremel and a screwdriver first time around not a good method. All you need is all the parts associated with a manual transmission. Master cylinder Clutch pedal Hard line from master cylinder to distribution block Distribution block Rubber line from distribution block to slave cylinder Slave cylinder Transmission Shifter Shifter boot Dash trim Tranny bracket rear mount Throw out bearing Clutch Clutch fork Clutch plate Flywheel MT flywheel bolts 6 MT pilot bushing MT transmission bellhousing bolts The bellhousing bolts are similar, but different for the Auto and 5-speed transmissions.
Additional Info for sx Tranmission Swap You can use your auto ECU until you find a sx 5-speed one, but you will have cold weather start issues every once and awhile. The factory-fitted version of a new automated car will continue to deliver its advantages without burning a hole in your pocket. However, if you happen to be a hardcore auto enthusiast with a DIY streak, then the challenging conversion process will surely excite you.
If you are looking to go ahead with the conversion, make sure that the mechanic is highly experienced. The conversion process itself is very complex and involves hundreds of parts that need to be tweaked or changed completely. It tests the expertise of even the most experienced mechanics. Hence the conversion needs to be carried out by an experienced professional who is well-versed with the complex operation. Product information is solely based on the information received from the insurers.
For more details on risk factors, associated terms and conditions and exclusions, please read the sales brochure carefully of the respective insurer before concluding a sale.
Breadcrumb Home Articles General Manual to automatic transmission gear conversion. Advantages of Converting from Manual to Automatic Transmission: 1.
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